MINDFUL MOMENTS

Thai temple compounds are usually very tranquil.

Thailand's sparkling temples

Ask any visitor to Thailand what has impressed them during their stay, and most answers will include the temples that sparkle in the tropical sun. There are well over twenty thousand of them throughout the country, and just about everyone is drawn in to a temple compound at some time or other.

The attraction may be the glittering mosaic decorations, the soulful chanting of monks and nuns, the statues of curious mythological figures, or the tranquil atmosphere within the temple's walls.

Curiosity leads to mindfulness

These visitors may not realize at the time, but one reason that the experience of visiting a temple stands out is that they are practising mindfulness, the basis of Buddhist meditation. Mindfulness means to be acutely aware of the present moment, a capacity which comes easily when encountering something for the first time.

Curiosity is aroused when we go sightseeing, and part of the pleasure of discovering something new is that it stops for a while the mind's re-shuffling of bygone events and wild plans for the future. For short periods at least, in a strange and fascinating environment, it is easy to heed the Buddhist exhortation to 'be here now'.

Glittering chedi reflected in naga.

Blissful Buddha image in festival parade.

Those mindful moments

'Nirvana' is an elusive state, even for those who dedicate their lives to its pursuit. But all of us are capable of mindful moments - fleeting instants when we feel wide awake, physically balanced, emotionally calm and mentally attentive (the word 'Buddha' in fact comes from the sanskrit word 'buddh', meaning to wake up).

In such a mental state we can learn a lot by simply opening our eyes and seeing the 'dhamma', or truth, in the world about us. And the compounds of Thai temples are full of sights from which we can learn about the world through contemplation.

Of nagas and kanok

The steep sloping roofs of temples, often in multiple layers, are designed thus to keep the interiors cool, and the eaves are usually decorated with 'nagas', serpent-like creatures which act as guardians. Frequently made of reflective glass mosaics, they look both fearsome and beautiful when caught by the sun's rays.

Nagas also flank steps leading up to the temple doors. The doors and windows themselves are often carved with characters performing a 'wai' (gesture of respect), or with designs featuring the 'kanok', a swirling flame-shaped pattern found throughout Thailand.

Bright forest of chedis.

Graceful thoong are an attractive element of temple compounds.

Of chedi and viharn and thoong

Cone-shaped 'chedi' or pagodas are often the most striking element of a temple compound. Smothered in copper or bronze plate or a fresh coat of whitewash, such structures hold the ashes of revered monks, and are usually built right next to the 'viharn' or main temple.

If a festival is in progress, the compounds may also be graced by 'thoong', richly-decorated prayer flags, several metres long, that sway in any breeze.

The Buddha's eyes and hands

Images of the Buddha, usually made of brass, adorn the interior of the main temple. Needless to say, great care goes into the construction of these images, so much so that sometimes the artist is able to directly calm the viewer through the blissful expression on the Buddha's face.

For devotees, however, the position of the Buddha's hands communicates as much as his look, conveying blessing, teaching and the struggle to resist the desires of the senses. As well as statues, temples often contain painted scenes from the life of Buddha or allegoric images indicating the results of good or bad actions.

Hand of massive Buddha image.

Monk power

As with every sphere of life, however, it is people themselves who affect us more strongly than their artifacts. Thai monks, with their simple saffron robes, bare feet, shaved heads and eyebrows seem to epitomise the spiritual life. They make a stark contrast to most of modern Thailand, where fashion and wealth hold sway on the city streets.

A freshly-ordained novice monk.

The hub of village life

The rhythm of life in the countryside revolves around the temple, which is usually found in the heart of a rural village. Unlike Christianity's Sunday and Islam's Friday, Buddhism has no 'special day' for worship and 'Buddha Day' is on a different day each week.

On whatever day it falls, lay people visit the temple to make offerings and reaffirm their intention to keep the 'five precepts' of the faith - no killing, no stealing, no lying, no intoxication or indulgence in the senses.

Doing good

They show their faith actively by 'making merit', or doing good deeds. One of Thailand's most unique sights is that of lay people on their knees, giving thanks to monks for allowing them to offer food on the early morning alms round.

In materialist societies, it is always the receiver who gives thanks for a present and the giver who accepts thanks, humbly or otherwise. It is indeed strange to see these roles reversed in this touching interaction.

Another form of merit making is to offer lotus flowers, candles and incense, all highly symbolic objects, to Buddha images in a temple.

Devotees offering candles during Buddhist festival.

The lotus flower grows up out of the mud to form exquisite blooms, showing us that it is possible to transcend impure origins. The flame which flickers atop a candle symbolizes the Enlightenment or Awakening that Buddhists aspire to. And the fragrance of incense represents the virtue which should pervade our actions.

A sense of elevation

Many visitors feel uplifted on leaving a Thai temple, particularly if they walk around at their own pace, attentive to the symbolism of what they see, and open to the lessons there are to learn.

Some may find it difficult to rationalize this sense of piety, but the explanation is not so hard to find. When people act out of mindfulness and humility rather than selfishness and greed, the weighty problems of the world seem to simply melt away, and this planet becomes a delightful place to be.