EXPLORING THE LOST WORLD

Jasper Falls in the Gran Sabana.

'How shall I ever forget the solemn mystery of it? The height of the trees and the thickness of the boles...vivid orchids and wonderful coloured lichens...the effect was as a dream of fairyland.'
The Lost World, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

Discovering the Lost World

When these words were written early in the 20th century, many of the world's jungle regions remained unexplored, and imaginations were kindled by tales of Professor Challenger and crew going where no man had ever trod, while pterodactyls swooped at them from the sheer cliffs of their table mountain home.

Interest sparked again in 1935, when Jimmy Angel, an American aviator, flew off course in low cloud and came across what turned out to be the world's highest waterfall, plunging almost a kilometre from the heights of these same table mountains.

We now know there are no pterodactyls, but in every other sense the 'lost world' of Conan Doyle's fantasy novel exists, in the southwest region of Venezuela, near the borders with Brazil and Guyana. It is called the 'Gran Sabana', and though scientific expeditions have removed some of its mystery, more than half of the hundred or so table mountains, or 'tepuis' as they are known, have still not been explored.

Scientists have already found many species of plants and animals that exist nowhere else - strange life forms such as fungi that feed on ants. And even these scientific reports contain references to 'weird screams in the night' and 'dinosaur- type lizards', so perhaps Conan Doyle's imagination was not so far out after all.

The tepuis rise sheer from the plateau of the Gran Sabana.

A world apart

The summits of the tepuis remain inaccessible except for official expeditions which arrive by helicopter. And this is perhaps no bad thing, given the importance of the area and man's all-too-careless treatment of the environment over most of the globe. The sheer cliffs not only keep invaders out, but also act as prison walls for the species that can survive in such a rarefied atmosphere.

As such the tepui summits present scientists with an unusual opportunity to study a completely untampered environment. However, for us simple folk, just to ponder the presence of these symmetrical mountains is awe-inspiring, to imagine their formation a mental challenge.

Waterfall emerging from a cliff.

Two ways to go

There is both a tough and an easy way to explore the Gran Sabana. The easy way is to hop on a plane from Caracas, the capital of Venezuela, to Canaima, a tourist encampment a few miles downstream from the majestic Angel Falls. Weather permitting, the pilot sweeps past the falls on the approach to the camp. This is indeed a sight to treasure.

The River Carrao slides over the lip of Auyan Tepui ('Devil Mountain' to the local indians), then almost loses itself in a mist of vapour before reforming and crashing into the jungle an unbelievable 979 metres below.

Washing on the shores of Lake Hasha.

Canaima comforts

The camp at Canaima consists of attractive, comfortable cabins on the shores of Lake Hasha. Beyond the pink sand, rust-coloured waters pour over a series of five cataracts into the lake, while behind loom the massive tepuis. On arrival, a powered canoe takes visitors out on the lake for a close look at the falls, close enough to get drenched by the spray and even to enter caverns behind the falls themselves.

A few days spent in this tranquil environment promises a rejuvenating experience, whether spent lounging on the shores of the lake, taking local canoe trips or walks, or making a week-long trek to the base of Angel Falls.

By road through the Gran Sabana

Sunset over the River Orinoco.

The tough way, but perhaps more rewarding, is via a southbound dirt road that leads to the border with Brazil at Santa Elena de Uairen. Some 100 km south of El Dorado, the 'escalera', or stairway, climbs from the hot plains to the cool plateau of the Gran Sabana.

Camping by a clear stream.

Once on the top, the fairyland of Conan Doyle's book unfolds - strange plants and perspectives, the massive forms of the tepuis looking like Hollywood sets, even the light taking on a cinematic intensity.

Unusual plants abound on the plateau.

A casual stroll off the road can lead to chance encounters with monkeys, sloths and even the rare giant anteater, while closer inspection of the earth reveals delicate miniature flowers and plants. Camping can be a delightful experience, especially on the sandy banks of a clear stream - just right for the morning and evening bath! At night the stars seem almost close enough to touch, and strange sounds from the jungle punctuate the silence.

Vision of Roraima

Unfortunately, this route does not include a view of Angel Falls, but there are many spectacular sights both on the main road and on side trips. One such trip is a trek to Roraima, one of the largest and most mysterious tepuis, which straddles the borders of Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil.

At over 3000 metres it is almost perpetually veiled in mist, and only a few have found a way up its walls to explore the remote world of its summit. It was, in fact, an account of an expedition to Roraima late in the 19th century which led to the writing of 'The Lost World'.

Bright bedrock at Jasper

An easier trip from the main road, about 30 miles southwest of Roraima, leads along a rough track to Jasper Falls. This makes a spectacular sight, not because of its height (about 5 metres), but for the brilliant colours of the bedrock, which glows orange and scarlet, making a sharp contrast with the deep green vegetation around. The stream is often low, allowing a paddle in its surreal waters.

Another view of Jasper Falls.

Dreams of gold and diamonds

Other streams in the area have attracted gold and diamond prospectors, who still manage to extract a living from the land. and the border town of Santa Elena has a definite 'frontier' feel about it. The dingy gem stores are not exactly paragons of prosperity but there is an easy, contented feel about the town's inhabitants.

Arriving here after countless dusty days on the road, it's time to sit back with a cool drink and ponder a dilemma - the need to head back soon to civilization set against the desire to settle into this mesmerizing environment and write a sequel to 'The Lost World'.